Mitte: Where Berlin Has Changed the Most

No Berlin district has changed as radically since 1989 as Mitte. Where the Wall once stood — literally along streets that still exist today — three decades have brought luxury apartments, tourist hotels and corporate headquarters. What was wasteland and building site after the fall of the Wall is now the most representative kilometre of the German capital. This transformation is visible if you know what to look for. Those unfamiliar with the history of these places see only a well-polished city centre.

Hackesche Höfe – Art Nouveau in the Courtyard

The Hackesche Höfe near S-Bahnhof Hackescher Markt were built in 1906 and are the most famous courtyard ensemble in Berlin: eight interconnected inner courtyards, alternating between Art Nouveau tiles, brick and greenery. You can walk through them at any time, free of charge — the first courtyard with its Art Nouveau decoration is the most photographed, while the rear courtyards are quieter and show the ensemble in its more everyday function as a residential and commercial building.

In the first courtyard is the Chamäleon Theater, one of the best variety theatres in the city. Acrobatics, dance, circus arts — the programme changes regularly, with tickets starting at around 30 euros. Booking is recommended, particularly at weekends. The theatre itself is a historic auditorium from the 1920s, and the interior alone makes the visit worthwhile.

Unter den Linden – The Grand Promenade

Unter den Linden is Berlin's most famous ceremonial boulevard — 1.4 kilometres from Friedrichstraße to the Brandenburger Tor, lined with lime trees, historic buildings and everything Berlin wishes to project as a capital city. The classic walk runs from the Brandenburger Tor eastward towards the Museumsinsel.

Along the way lies Bebelplatz, where the National Socialists burned books on 10 May 1933. In the centre of the square, a glass panel sits flush with the ground — beneath it, empty white bookshelves, a silent memorial by Micha Ullman. Those not looking for it walk straight over it. Directly alongside stands the Staatsoper Unter den Linden, back in operation after years of renovation. The programme page is worth a look — standing tickets are affordable.

At the end of the axis opens the Museumsinsel, and the Humboldt Forum in the reconstructed Berliner Schloss has been one of Germany's most debated cultural projects since its opening — partly because of its architecture, partly because of questions surrounding the provenance of parts of its collection. Both are reasons to see it for yourself.

Gendarmenmarkt – What Everyone Says, and Why They Are Right

The Gendarmenmarkt is often described as Germany's most beautiful square — and standing there, you understand why. The Konzerthaus in the centre, flanked by two identical domed churches, the Deutscher Dom and the Französischer Dom: the ensemble is historic, perfectly proportioned and freely accessible. The square itself is free. In winter it hosts a Christmas market with a modest entry fee of around 2 euros, which is more than compensated for by the quality and atmosphere.

Climbing the Französischer Dom gives one of the better views over central Berlin — for around 5 euros. The colonnade runs around the dome, and on a clear day the view stretches as far as Charlottenburg.

Museumsinsel UNESCO – What Requires Planning

The Museumsinsel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site housing five museums that cannot possibly all be visited in a single day. Those who want a focused visit should choose: either the Pergamonmuseum (reconstructed antiquity on a monumental scale, entry around 14 euros, but tickets must be booked online in advance — spontaneous visits regularly fail at the queue) or the Neues Museum with the bust of Nefertiti, the city's most famous exhibit (also around 14 euros).

For those planning to visit several museums, the Museumspass Berlin is worthwhile: around 29 euros for three consecutive days, valid in all Staatliche Museen zu Berlin. This covers the Pergamon, Neues Museum, Bode-Museum and more. The pass is available at all ticket desks and makes budgeting straightforward.

Checkpoint Charlie – Between Tourist Trap and Real History

Checkpoint Charlie on Friedrichstraße is one of Berlin's most visited attractions — and simultaneously one of the most disappointing experiences if you arrive unprepared. The original installation is gone; what you see today is a reconstruction built for tourist photographs. If you are there for the photo opportunity, three minutes will suffice. Those who want to understand the history should visit the Dokumentationszentrum Checkpoint Charlie, Friedrichstraße 43–45: entry around 14.50 euros, and the exhibition on GDR history, escape attempts and the history of German division is well researched and deserves to be taken seriously.

Holocaust Memorial – A Monument You Have to Feel

The Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas, designed by Peter Eisenman, stands directly beside the Brandenburger Tor: 2,711 concrete stelae of varying heights, on a gently sloping site. You enter the field from the outside, and the deeper you walk in, the taller the stelae become and the narrower the paths. A physical experience that requires no explanatory text.

Underground is the Ort der Information, a permanent exhibition on the history of the extermination of the Jews — free of charge, well curated, with documents, names and photographs. The exhibition is deeply moving and essential. Entry is only via the underground entrance on the south side, which is open daily.

Practical Information

Suggested Route

Walking from Hackescher Markt along Unter den Linden to the Brandenburger Tor, then back via the memorial to the Gendarmenmarkt, makes a solid day's framework — around 6 to 8 kilometres depending on detours. Too much for a museum visit in a single day, but ideal as a city walk.

Advance Planning

Always book online in advance for the Pergamonmuseum and Neues Museum — even on weekdays. Spontaneous visitors frequently find themselves locked out or facing long queues. Advance booking costs nothing extra.

Cost Overview

Hackesche Höfe: free (Chamäleon Theater from 30 €)
Unter den Linden / Brandenburger Tor: free
Gendarmenmarkt: free (tower 5 €)
Museumspass 3 days: approx. 29 €
Checkpoint Charlie documentation centre: 14.50 €
Holocaust Memorial and exhibition: free

Mitte is demanding in the best possible sense: dense history in a compact area, alongside crowds from every corner of the world. Those staying here for a few days should get up early — most sites are almost entirely deserted before 9 a.m. Our Berlin apartments near the city centre make exactly that possible: out in the morning when others are still asleep, and back in the evening when the tourist coaches have returned to the hotels.