Spreewald: Punt Trips, Pickled Gherkins and Perfect Quiet

The Spreewald lies one hour south of Berlin and feels like a different country entirely. No roads between the villages — only waterways. Houses sit on small islands, and anyone wanting to visit a neighbour takes a flat-bottomed boat. This UNESCO Biosphere Reserve protects a network of 1,000 kilometres of channels and streams, through which goods and post were once transported daily on wooden punts. That era has largely passed, but the stillness has stayed.

Getting There: RE2 or RE3 to Lübbenau

The fastest connection is the RE2 or RE3 from Berlin Ostbahnhof or Lichtenberg to Lübbenau. The journey takes between 55 and 65 minutes depending on the service. The Brandenburg-Berlin-Ticket costs around €30 for up to five people and is valid all day — there and back. For groups and families it is the best-value option.

Travelling alone, it is worth checking the single ticket: it costs roughly €12–14 for the route. Trains run hourly; exact times are easy to find in the DB Navigator app. At weekends, particularly in summer, the regional trains can be very busy.

Punt Trips: The Heart of the Spreewald

No visit to the Spreewald is complete without a Kahnfahrt. These traditional flat-bottomed wooden boats are propelled by a punter using a long pole through the canals — similar to Venetian gondolas, but quieter and with considerably more reed beds. Several operators depart daily from the Lübbenauer Hafen, just a few minutes' walk from the station.

A two-hour tour costs around €15 per person; a four-hour tour is roughly €22. Several companies compete at the harbour with similar prices and routes. One well-known operator is Kahn-Fahrt Lübbenau, though it is equally easy to turn up at the harbour and see what is about to depart. Tours wind through narrow canals beneath overhanging willow branches, past farmsteads on tiny islands, and through the open-air museum at Lehde.

Those who prefer to go independently can hire a paddleboat or canoe and explore the waterways at their own pace. For the lesser-known channels, however, a guided tour is recommended — especially on a first visit. Without local knowledge it is surprisingly easy to get lost in the water labyrinth.

Lehde: The Village With No Roads

Lehde is accessible only by boat. The village consists of a few dozen houses sitting on small islands between the canals, with wooden walkways instead of streets and punts moored at every door. The Freilichtmuseum Lehde presents three authentically preserved farmsteads showing how the Spreewald population lived 100 years ago: thatched roofs, timber framing, no heat beyond the kitchen stove. Entry costs around €4.

The village itself is worth seeing beyond the museum boundaries. Gliding slowly through the canals and looking at the houses from the water offers an experience unlike any city excursion. At the Gasthaus Zum Wendischen Krug, right on the waterfront in Lehde, traditional Spreewald cooking is served: braised beef, Grützwurst, linseed oil with quark and jacket potatoes. Hearty, honest and very good.

The Gurkenradweg and Spreewald Gherkins

The Gurkenradweg — the Gherkin Cycle Route — winds through orchards, vegetable fields and fish ponds across the Spreewald. It is well signposted and suitable for casual cyclists: flat Brandenburg terrain, not alpine riding. Bicycles can be hired at Lübbenau station for around €10 per day.

Along the route, roadside stalls sell the famous Spreewälder Gurke. This is not an ordinary gherkin — it is a protected regional product with its own EU geographical indication. The cucumbers are traditionally pickled in wooden barrels with dill, horseradish and spices. A jar costs between €3 and €5. Around 35,000 tonnes of gherkins are grown in the Spreewald each year, a significant share of which goes to Spreewald brands. The scale sounds industrial, but for many producers the work remains genuinely artisanal.

Sorbian Culture and the Biosphere Reserve

The Spreewald is the heartland of the Sorbs, a West Slavic minority who have lived in Lusatia for more than 1,500 years. Their language, Lower Sorbian, still appears on road signs today and is taught in local schools. In this region the Sorbs are also known as Wenden — hence the name Wendischer Krug at the inn in Lehde.

The Biosphere Reserve was established in 1990 and protects one of the most species-rich inland landscapes in Central Europe. White-tailed eagles and otters are resident here; black storks and kingfishers are spotted by most visitors almost by chance from the punt. The water is clear enough to see the bottom. Anyone wanting to understand why this is different from an average Brandenburg canal should simply come and see for themselves.

When to Go and What to Bring

The punt season runs from May to September. July and August weekends are very busy, especially on hot days. For a quieter experience, travel mid-week or outside the school summer holidays. May and September often offer warm enough weather with far fewer visitors on the water.

What to bring: insect repellent, sturdy shoes for gravel paths, a light waterproof jacket (the forest can drop the temperature noticeably) and cash. Not all gherkin stalls and boat-hire points accept cards. A small daypack is far more practical than a large bag. And patience — the Spreewald rewards those who slow down. Anyone choosing between this and other day trips around Berlin should know: the Spreewald is the most unique of the lot. Potsdam can be ticked off more quickly.

Our Berlin holiday apartments are conveniently located for Ostbahnhof and Lichtenberg, where trains to the Spreewald depart directly.